I had the great good fortune to attend the University of Michigan—not only because it is a great university, which it is, but because Ann Arbor is home to Zingerman’s, arguably one of the finest delicatessens in the United States.

You would be perfectly justified in not giving much of a hoot or holler about my college-era sandwich memories. But here is why you should care: Right here in Searsport, Maine, we have Scullery Made, a new delicatessen and sandwich shop whose food can stand proudly alongside the sandwiches that made Zingerman’s famous.

The name, “Scullery Made,” is a clever nod to the old-fashioned scullery maid—the person responsible for the grueling, messy, behind-the-scenes work of cleaning, prep, and dishes. It is an apt name for a restaurant, where much of the real work happens out of sight, long before a sandwich reaches the table.

Scullery Made is owned by Mary Kate Labenski, with her father, Michael, a familiar presence up front, welcoming customers and taking orders. Mary Kate is in the kitchen, where the essential magic happens. And that magic comes in the form of big, deeply flavorful sandwiches; hearty soups; satisfying salads; breakfast sandwiches; and bagels.

By day, Scullery Made embraces the New York Jewish-style deli tradition. The menu includes generously stacked Reubens, Cubanos, pastrami, brisket, turkey-and-cream-cheese “Elenas,” and other sandwiches that have both heft and personality. Served on soft rye bread—or toast, if that is your preference—these are sandwiches made for serious appetites and lingering lunches.

But Scullery Made is more than a lunchtime destination. As the day turns to evening, it becomes a cocktail bar, offering craft drinks, local beer, wine, and small plates. You might pair a signature Ellen’s NY Sour with hummus, deviled eggs, meatballs, or lamb empanadas—proof that this little Searsport spot is thinking beyond the standard deli counter.

With fall underway and winter approaching, Scullery Made belongs on your list of places to visit. It is the sort of place where you can duck in from the cold, settle down with a serious sandwich or a bowl of soup, and enjoy the feeling that the people making your food truly care about getting it right.

You’ll find Scullery Made at 23 East Main Street in Searsport. It is generally open Monday and Thursday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; it is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Call (207) 548-4020 to confirm hours before heading over.

Excellent food. Wonderful people. A real local treasure.

Richard Podolsky lives in Camden