Since 1938, the classically southern mint julep has been the official cocktail at Churchill Downs, the site of the Kentucky Derby, but its roots go back to the 19th century when doctors prescribed spearmint and bourbon for folks with tricky stomach issues.

This Saturday, May 7, the Yankee tribute to the classic mint julep can be found at Francine Bistro in Camden. Veteran bartender Chip Dewing pays homage to the cocktail from the traditional spearmint, right down to the pewter cup it’s served in.

On a chilly day in May in Maine, it’s not immediately obvious why this very simple cocktail needs a certain glass, but one has to imagine the drink’s origins on a hot, sweltering summer afternoon as southern neighbors all getting together.

“Pewter and sterling silver cups were traditionally used because metal acts as a conductor and what happens when the outside of the glass frosts up due to the crushed ice is the interior of the glass gets colder,” said Dewing. “In Kentucky and Louisiana on those hot summer days, sitting outside, they needed a drink that would be very refreshing and hold up on its own.”

The end result is not for the delicate flowers of this world. The strong, bold flavor of bourbon dominates the first sip as the hint of maple burbles up. The cocktail begins to change its chemistry once the crushed ice melts and the spearmint on the bottom releases its oils. By the time you’re half into it, the flavors balance out and mellow, becoming a little more friendly toward the bottom.  Hard-ass until you get to know it, then cuddly as a teddy bear. Sound like anyone you know?

To make the Francine Bistro mint julep on your own you’ll need:

• Crushed ice (roll block ice in a clean towel and smash with a mallet)
• Spearmint
• 1-1/2 tsp. Maine maple syrup
•  1/2 ounce on the first pour of Maker’s Mark Straight Bourbon, then 2 ounces after the crushed ice
• A splash of tap water

Tear up spearmint leaves and place in the bottom of the metal cup. Add maple syrup, add a splash of bourbon, and muddle. Fill cup with crushed ice. Add rest of Maker’s Mark and a splash of water. Add a straw and stir up the bottom. Garnish with spearmint. “When you sip it through the straw, you’ll get the fragrance of the mint on the bottom,” Dewing said.

Make one yourself or head on over to Francine Bistro and watch Chip whip one up from scratch!

Kay Stephens can be reached at news@penbaypilot.com